Osh is located in at the head of the Fergana Valley in southern Kyrgyzstan. Settlement dates back over 3000 years, and since its founding, Osh has been a bustling market town on the silk road. Then, and now, it serves as the destination for goods traveling over the treacherous Alay Mountains from the Chinese city of Kashgar.
Sulaiman Too (Mount Sulaiman), located in the center of the city, is a Muslim pilgrimage site. Babur, the founder of the South Asian Mughal Empire, constructed a mosque on its rocky slopes in dedication to sacred land. Today, nearly 300,000 Kyrgyz, Uzbek, Russians, Tartars, Tajiks, and other ethnicities call this city of bazaars and mosques their home.
What to do in Osh city
Osh is a city still emerging from status as a regional center in the Soviet Union into its former identity as cosmopolitan trade stop. There are a variety of homages to its historic past, including soviet era historical museums and monuments, as well as a budding artisan scene focused on the region’s diverse foods. Hiking in the nearby Alay mountains is an easy single or multi-day getaway.
- Hike Suleiman Too (Mount Solomon). Hike this sacred mountain and Muslim pilgrimage site to admire great views of the city and see a historical museum in a cave.
- Suleiman Museum: Located at the bottom of the mountain.
- Foodie tour of Osh: Eat all the local food specialties.
- Make bread: Learn how to make traditional Kyrgyz bread.
- Day trip to Uzgen with its Silk Road sites.
- Walk through the carnival park: with all kinds of dodgy rides and carnival games.
- Ice skate (in the winter)
Check out the Uncornered Market’s travel guide to Osh for more ideas and visit Destination Osh to take part in walking and food tours of the city.
How to Get to Osh: Transportation Options
How to get from Bishkek to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
The three most common options for traveling from Bishkek to Osh are by air, private taxi, and shared taxi. A flight from Bishkek to Osh takes around an hour gate-to-gate and is serviced by Air Manas and TezJet. Prices range from $20 to $50 (1500 to 3500 KGS) depending upon how far in advance they are booked. Taxis from the Osh International Airport to downtown start from 250 KGS per car.
Private transport from Bishkek to Osh can be arranged through tourism agencies and cost around $150 per car. Shared taxis are located at Bishkek’s central bus station (avtovaksal) and the Osh Bazaar. They depart when full and take eleven or more hours to complete the route. Price per seat in a shared taxi ranges from $17 to $20 (1200 to 1500 KGS).
Visit Alay offers private transfers from Bishkek to Osh or from Osh to Bishkek in comfortable vehicles with experienced drivers. Just get in touch with us to request our transportation services.
How to get from Andijan, Uzbekistan to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Traveling from Andijan to Osh is a two-step process that requires entering Kyrgyzstan at the Uzbek-Kyrgyz Friendship (Dostuk) border crossing. Shared taxis to the Dostuk border crossing depart from Andijan’s central train station. The price per seat starts from 10000 UZS.
At the border, walk through customs and find new transportation to downtown Osh. Taxis from the Dostuk border crossing to downtown start from 100 KGS per car. Alternatively, regular mashrutkas run every ten minutes from the crossing. Price per person on the mashrutka is 20 KGS.
How to get from Dushanbe, Tajikistan to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
The only route for non-Kyrgyz or Tajik citizens from Dushanbe to Osh is along the Pamir Highway. Since there is no public transportation to or from Murghab on the Pamir Highway, travelers can either arrange for private transportation in Dushanbe or find shared taxis along the route. Private transportation is arranged through tourism agencies and depends upon the itinerary. Information about shared taxis along the Pamir Highway can be found here.
We offer a range of Pamir Highway tours, including group Pamir Highway departures. Contact us to figure out which Pamir Highway option is right for you.
How to get from Kashgar, China to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Trips from Kashgar to Osh are a two-step process that requires entering Kyrgyzstan at the Chinese-Kyrgyz Irkeshtam border crossing. Shared taxis to the Irkeshtam border crossing must be arranged one day in advance at Kashgar’s central taxi station. Price per seat starts from $12 (80 CNY).
Shared taxis from the Irkeshtam crossing to Osh start from $15 per seat (1000 som); although, sometimes there are not enough local travelers to fill the car and the taxi will have to be purchased outright.
Transportation around Osh
There are a variety of different options to get from place to place in Osh. The primary tool for navigating is the mapping application 2GIS. Download the map of Osh, which includes the names of businesses, restaurants, and marshrutka routes. Marshrutkas and buses travel from stop to stop along pre-designated routes. They cost ten and eight som, respectively, and are paid when exiting the vehicle. Alternatively, metered taxis such as 141 or 180 offer quality service at decent prices. Knowledge of Russian or Kyrgyz is imperative when calling these services for a taxi, as there is no smartphone ordering application.
Where to Stay in Osh
There are many accommodation options at this moment. You can check it on Booking.com or TripAdvisor.
Where to Eat in Osh
California Cafe
We Oshites love Cali Cafe. It has great pizza, brewed coffee, pastas, salads, gigantic pots of tea, yummy ice cream (with chocolate and nuts!), and best of all baked goods. There is also a really decent breakfast menu with pancakes and eggs and whatnot, though the time that breakfast is served is somewhat fluid. In theory it is from 9am to 11 am, but go before 10:37 am to avoid disappointment. The prices are good, and the waitresses are pleasant. Downside: No Wifi. When we asked if they would get Wifi, the response was “Never”. Noted.
Tsvarski Dvor/ ‘Treehouse’
The famous Treehouse (not it’s real name), is the summer place, as you can sit out on the patios under the trees and drink beer. In the winter, the inside is like you are in a Bavarian ski lodge. There is an extensive menu, the duck shashluk is the best! There are exactly two English menus floating around the place, so ask for them. Even if you can read Russian, the English translations are a delight to peruse. Theoretically has Wifi, but this has been a bit of a mystical unicorn 80% of the time.
New Borcok (on Masaleiva, East side of a river)
Quintessential coffee cafe, pleasant place to be with comfy booths. The menu has various coffees, fast food, pasta, pizza, hot dishes, salads, and desserts. The girls at this place are really nice and friendly. Has air con in the summer. Wifi is solid and they don’t bitch about you sitting there…all day long.
Old Borcok (in Aravanski, West side of a river)
The original Borcok, has the same menu as the New Borcok, and is located very centrally in Aravanski. Other than that it is hateful. The place is dark and can get really loud, and the girls are miserable and hate us. Seriously, they try to ignore us for as long as possible. Also has wifi, but really, go to New Borcok if possible. This is also where I dropped my phone in the toilet.
Azteka
By definition is a Mexican restaurant, but has a huge menu. Located south of downtown, so good option if you are staying down that way.
Bayana
Very good Kyrgyz place, awesome Lagman, pleasant people, and the food is really fast. The menu is confusing regarding the Oromo though, I wouldn’t bother. You’ll end up paying for it.
Altyn Baluk (Golden Fish)
Good Kyrgyz place with shashluk and lots of bikes around. Beer on tap is cheap, has an outside patio area in the summer. South of Aravanski.
Adi’s Cafe
New lounge type place, serves food but depends on the day what they may have. And how long it may take if it comes at all. Has fresh fruit smoothies, and real French wine (which you can get by the bottle if you have well paid non-PCV friends who feel sorry for you). Nice place to be, plays classical music, owned by a young Russian lady just trying to make her way in the
world. Has air conditioning, has said will get wifi, Билбайм.
Ordo Cafe ‘Rooftop’
Ordo has great food, and we call it Rooftop because there is a rooftop where you can sit and drink/eat. Unfortunately, it can be one of those places where you can go through the drinks menu and they say Jok to half of what is listed. Just stick to draught beer you should be fine. Great view of Suleiman Too, you’re literally right at the base of the mountain. Plus they just added burritos to the menu!!
‘River Bar’
This place might have a real name, Erik and Emily just call it River Bar. It’s a thatched walled bar under temporary roofing that sits on the Ak Burra river bed and serves one kind of beer. If asked, they will run to the dukune and buy bottles of vodka or cognac though. The girls there will say they do not have a bathroom. Not totally true, they do have one, but instead of cleaning the years of filth out of it, they just locked the door and lie about its existence.
Korean Restaurant
In Frunze, this place has legit, real-life Korean food and is moderately priced. There is wifi, and outdoor, covered seating, so we have high hopes for this place!
Japanese Place
Also new in town, this restaurant definitely looks Japanese from the outside. They serve sushi, though it’s not the cheapest eat in town, probably since the fish have to come from an actual ocean. Located between the bazaar and the central mosque on the side street off of Masaleiva.
Oasis
“The Best Schwarmas in Kyrgyzstan”- Erik Howell. Oasis is a window in the center of Aravanski that sells all manners of meat food, but schwarmas are the things to go for. They cost you 100som, they are pretty great.
‘Camca Bombs Place’
Again, not sure of the actual name, but at this window, for 60som, you can get hot out of the oven Camca Bombs, the ones Osh is famous for. They are about the size of a toddler’s head. Will need to eat it with a fork, maybe also a bib. Delicious, do not attempt if you can’t digest oil properly. Or already have heart disease.
Izium
This place is a nightclub at night and is the place to be. But during the day it serves Western-style food, drinks, and ice cream. Has Wifi.
Islambek Cafe
This is the place where Osh locals go to eat shashlik. There are individual private rooms, the meat on a stick is heavenly, and it’s a ton cheaper than Treehouse.
Lagman Place
North on Lenin from Islambek, this place, name unknown to this writer, is THE place where Osh locals go to eat Lagman, no small feat!
Osh Market
Located in Aravanski, this supermarket is the expat favorite, selling crazy things like salsa, brown sugar, Bailey’s, and legitimate dog and cat food. Also carries frozen ‘need to be baked’ goods, Dana recommends the chocolate croissants if you can find them.